Printer Calibration

  

 Final Products that emphasis the difference between the two types of papers used

Types Of Paper Used;

Photo Paper Plus Satin
Photo Paper Plus Glossy II

Through out this process I had a few difficulties with one of the printers as it would print as it kept saying there was no paper loaded (when there was), which was strange. After swapping everything seemed to run perfectly which was a relief. I was unaware/forgot that at the time that we had to swap computers to scan the color chart (as only two computers in the room only had the other version of the eye1 calibration application). A few hours later I ended up with me final result of the prints being correctly calibrated. Though my prints compared to the mater prints (them being Brians) had a silghtly browny color to it, this said the prints had full tonal ranges in the charts (pictured above). I am quite pleased with the final product, where I compared that the before and after look completely change.

  Color Chart (used to scan into the computer and calibrate the printer)

Calibrating A Computer Screen 3

I was pretty happy with the final result of the screen shot. As you can see the temp, luminance and gamma are in a straight line with each other.

Color Temperature;
Target; native
Current; 6200

Gamma;
Target; 2
Current;2

Luminance;
Target; 120.0 cd/m2
Current; 136.2 cd/m2
Minimum; 0.1 cd/m2

Ambient Light;
Color Temperature; 7200 k
Illuminance; 46 Lux

As you can see the goal was to achieve the closest result to the target, which was achieved (apart from the luminance which is a bit off).

Ageing A Photograph

After 

Before (Original)

                                                                   

Steps On How To Age A Photo.

This is about taking a modern photo, making it look old. Results may vary depending o your definition of how an old photo appears. A lot of the old cameras didn’t pick up many of the shadows and highlights as with today’s modern camera. Firstly You need to create a new layer of you can work non destructively. To create an old photo image>adjustments>levels, output levels slightly drag to the right to about 43. This sucks out the shadows of the image. To give the image the authenticity of an old image image>adjustments>hue/saturation it is a colourised overlay. Click on colourise in the bottom right hand corner, your aim is to create a sepia type colour [hue;33, saturation;27, lightness -11] and press ok. Filter>noise>add noise, this is to add a bit of speckle [amount;9, ensure that uniform and monochromatic is checked off] click ok. Hold down alt/option key and press delete to create a white background, make sure white is your support colour [white as your foreground and black as the background colour]. Filter>render>fibres, your are looking for a little bit of white and a lot of black where the white is going the act as the scratches [variance;4, strength;35, for just a few scratches] click ok. Make sure layer 2 is selected, click on where it says normal [side pallet – right hand side] then select screen, basically hides all of the black. This creates a scratchy effect. Just decrease the opacity a little bit to show less scratches.

Notes
As mentioned in my step by step process, I didn't mention on the actual presentation is that when you begin each process you need to create a new layer for each step. This is so you can go back and alter particular processes with out affecting the other steps.

Reference

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to-age-photos-photoshop-221859/

HDR

HDR

End Product.

                                                                        Single Shot
                                   (What it would have looked like without the use of the HDR)


For my HDR (High Dynamic Range) shot I originally wanted to photography the jetty on a lake which was down the coast. Though due to weather difficulties I wasn't able to complete. This said I photographed this building located on the highway behind CIT, at sunrise. A collection of roughly 25 images were used to gather the blow out and the darkness of the images to obtain more detail. I am quite happy with the result as I have the detail within the shadows whilst maintaining detail in the bright barts of the image.